MMM...good books!

Maggie says:
Last month I read The United States of Arugula: The Sun-Dried, Cold-Pressed, Dark-Roasted, Extra Virgin Story of the American Food Revolution, and I still miss it. I can't remember the last time nonfiction has been such a complete pleasure to read. I tend to go for more painful subjects, so this was a guilty pleasure in the best way possible.

David Kamp is a fantastic writer, and he presents the tale of American food in a lively, witty, self-deprecating manner that endlessly charms. Kamp's knack for detail, cultural commentary, and use of choice quotes helps us follow the journey of food through the last two centuries, learning boatloads of trivia and obscure foodie knowledge along the way. For readers who can be seduced by food, this is a book for you, as stuffed full of personalities, romance, and tempers as it is supply, demand, and profit.

To me, the shock is in the timeline. I was consistently floored by how recently everyday foodstuffs like olive oil, salsa, balsamic vinegar, and fresh herbs were entirely absent from the American eating experience. Kamp quotes Californian chefs smuggling seeds in from Europe to (finally!) grow fresh herbs in this country, New York articles explaining the novelty of pizza (including how to pronounce it) to readers just fifty years ago, and the bounty of Jello-related recipes in mid-century women's magazines that reflect the so-called miracles of canned and processed foods. Without too much idolatry and a great sense of humor, Kamp helps us appreciate the sheer adventurousness and bravery of some of our food leaders like James Beard, Julia Child, and Craig Claiborne without ever losing his sense of perspective. He eases us into the world of French-dominated cuisine and how long it took - and why - for the United States to craft its own food identity, one that looked much more like its population. Through decades of intense change, we follow menus being crafted based on what's local for the first time ever, gender shifts in the game of food-talk, the raucousness of drug-fueled kitchens, the bite of restaurant reviews, and the rise of the "restaurant as entertainment" destination. Kamp's keen eye never skips a beat on entrepreneurship, food marketing and appeal, and the lifestyle/home shifts that enabled and spurred all this change.

To me, food is inherently political, and this outrageously fun read allows that perspective as much as it promotes snob-appeal ponderings. It's a great taking-off point for serious thinking about shifts in local produce and sustainability (read this, then The Omnivore's Dilemma), and you'll learn loads of fluff as well as practical knowledge along the way. This book is all about indulgence, learning, getting hungry, and yes, laughing out loud. My experience with "The United States of Arugula" is best summed up by the comment of a close observer: "I think you're purposely reading that so slowly because you don't ever want it to end." So true.